Tuesday, December 22, 2015

Marriage Season in Odisha - India trip 2015

The marriage season in Odisha, which was at its peak when I arrived, is in its last throes. Marriages might be made in heaven but the dances take place on earth. One day all of a sudden my vehicle came to a complete halt as from nowhere arrived a BARAATI (bridegroom) procession. I prayed for the ensuing traffic jam to ameliorate, wishing the crowd to dissipate fast.

But my ordeal was not going to be over soon. Among the cacophony of the honking vehicles around me, I enviously watched the bikers sneaking their way though the labyrinth of vehicles. I had no such luxury but to bear the exteremely loud music played by the BAND BAJA BARAAT (Groom's procession) blaring from the loudspeakers a few feet from my ears. I plugged them using my fingertips and watched the accompanying BARAATIs (friends of the groom) dancing on the road.

Their dance, or rather it was more of a monkey jumping fiesta. than any kind of rhythmic twist to the tune. Many were stamping on each others feet, some apparently in an inebriated stage. A few fell on the ground, wiped the dust off their hand and body, then continued the jumping spree. The place was close to one of the KALYAN MANDAPS (marriage venue) and many well dressed girls gaped through the gate to take a glimpse of the approaching procession. Their presence acted as a catalyst to the dancers. Like a bull getting excited upon seeing a Red Flag, the BARAATI guys wriggled and jumped with more power and enthusiasm.

Couple of guys upon sighting the giggling girls started NAAGIN (Serpent) dance. One of then playing the role of Serpent rolled on the ground, face up, his both hands folded like a hissing Cobra. Another guy was swinging on top of him, biting one end of a long handkerchieIf and holding the stretched other end emulating a Snake Charmer, his handkerchief posing as his luring musical instrument. More the girls giggled, some with their mouths closed with palm more the guys jumped and rolled. (Those who are not familiar with it might mistake this NAAGIN dance involvin two guys as a gay courtship dance).

This continued for a while until the giggling of the girls subsided. A cop arrived on the  scene, as a person stepped out of the melee, walking towards him. I assume he is a true Gandhian, as I saw him surreptitiously pushing a few papers bearing Gandhi's head into the cop's underhand. As a token of  appreciation, the cop let the jamboree continue for some more time. Finally the ordeal ended, as the crowd and cop slowly melted away. The road was now clear for me to continue my journey.

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