Saturday, June 11, 2022

Day X and XI in Bhubaneswar - India trip 2022

 OLA and UBER cab services are arguably the best thing to happen to the city in recent years. Just book them using your Smartphone App, you can see the cabs rolling in on screen, doing somersaults before showing up at your doorsteps in minutes. 

The other day I was the 8th ride for the OLA driver at 9 PM in night. He boasted that he is to driving as fish is to water and was planning to drive on untill midnight today and on the long tem until he goes over the hills over the wheels. A late migrant to Bhubaneswar from the midsize town of Bhadrak, like many job seekers from the hinterland of Odisha he came to the capital city, his city of neon lights and opportunity. He landed up as a driver for UBEREY (Uber pronounced in Odia accent) before shifting to OLA.

He shared his frustrations of handling occasional fastidious, recalcitrant passengers, last minute cancellations et all. He dreaded trips to Cuttack, for it's a challenge for him to drive in the labyrinth of lanes of the old city which prides itself on its 52 Bazaars and 53 Streets (BAUN BAZAAR, TEPAN GALI). Also he detested his customers in Cuttack whom he found to be more obnoxious and less rule abiding than those he encountered in Bhubaneswar.

I asked him - "How can you generalize like that" ? He continued - "Trust me, you must not have seen Cuttack". He was right. Though Cuttack is our neighboring city, I haven't visited it more than half a dozen times in my life, the last time was in year 2000. He went on - "The traffic in the new Capital city of Bhonsar is a walk in the park compared to Odisha's Old Capital city of Cuttack". I chuckled while replying back - "I certainly see how every rule abiding Bhubaneswariya makes his or own road rules on daily basis. Cuttackias can't be any worse".

During our early days in Bhubaneswar we lived in BJB Flats, in a government quarter provided to my father who used to teach Physics at the nearby BJB College. As the name indicates, the BJB Flats housed mostly teachers and staffs of BJB College, though there were considerable number of folks from other government services who got allocated quarters in those flats.

When we entered BJB flats in the year 1976, it was only 29 years since India got its independence from Britain. The British legacy still held steady. Apartments in Bhubaneswar were called Flats those days instead of Apartments as it is called in America. Now Flats are called Apartments in Bhubaneswar - e.g. Kedaragauri Apartments and so on. No one calls them Flats anymore.

Batsmen are now called Batters a la in Baseball games in USA. American slangs like bro etc is widely used by the young and not so young in Odisha's state capital. I saw an American restaurant "Chillis" at a mall near Rasulgarh. I heard men calling each other "Hey man" ! Pax Americana has taken over Bhubaneswar where British are so passe.

I took my son Sidhant with me to show him around the BJB Flats where I grew up, spent the bulk of my childhood and youth. We stayed in a 3 bedroom Flat located on the first floor, right on the front row of a series of flats. I knocked on the door of the flat numbering D-33 where we lived for 15 years. The current occupant of the quarter, a doctor, was initially a bit reluctant to let us in, but relented when he came to know that we are visiting all the way from America.

A lot have changed since we left the Flats in 1991. The floors are now made from marble instead of cement. There are parking garages unlike our days which makes the entrances to the flats look clumsy. A lemon tree planted by my mother has grown leaps and bounds into a tall shrub. I gaped at the rooms with nostalgia remembering those days of silly fights with my sisters. My room is still intact with the cupboard freshly painted. Only thing missing was the big poster of Brooke Shields, my teenage crush which adored inside the cupboard.

Local news channels had predicted the arrival of monsoon ahead of schedule by June 8. Well, June 8 came and went, still there was no sign of monsoon. It's less hot and sultry during the daytime, evenings being windy and pleasant. It seems like me monsoon is taking a vacation. But the air is thick and heavy, pregnant with water vapor, eager to deliver monsoon anytime for the eagerly waiting parched folks. More later....

Thursday, June 9, 2022

Day IX in Bhubaneswar- India trip 2022

 Today evening I was at Hotel Shirose near Ravi Talkies ordering a Parcel (the term used here for "to go" or take out food). I was about to wrap up my order when a gentleman barely a feet behind me suddenly interrupted in a very thick Odia accented Hindi by placing his order - "EKE MASRUMU PANIYARI PACKETE PARSALA KARO" (Parcel a Mushroom Paneer packet for take out). Extending his hand holding couple of 100 rupee notes (bills) over my shoulder he was trying to order before I had finished. Jumping queues to get ahead in line is part and parcel of life life.


Not sure why an Odia placing an order face to face with another Odia in the heartland of Odisha has to talk in a thick Odia accented Hindi ! Same was corroborated by a friend who just moved to Bhubaneswar from Mumbai and found out to his unpleasant surprise that most of his Odia colleagues here talk in Hindi amongst themselves. Some of them have never ever ventured out of Odisha.

I politely told our impatient guy in Odia to wait for his turn. He responded to me in clear and unadulterated Odia - "TIKE URGENTE KAMA THILA. LAYTE HEI GALENI (Had a little urgent work. I am getting late)". I replied in Odia, "We all here have some urgent work to do". It didn't seem to deter his recalcitrance. I reiterated myself, this time transliterating exactly what I just told him in Odia into English. "You can't just get ahead in the line. You need to wait for your turn". He acquiesced by miraculosly falling in line. In Odisha we love to respect those who speak in Hindi - more those speaking in English. My switching to English did the trick.

I have found biking is fun, but for a short distance. The local traffic is too erratic and unsafe to venture into the main road where one needs to be a zigzag Zen master to manoeuvre. Being out of the milieu for so long - if I drive on the main road it won't take long before either someone hits me, or I hit somebody. There is hardly any designated Pedestrian or Zebra crossing in Bhubaneswar. You have to tip toe and sway your hips, waving and clenching hands like an eunuch towards the incoming traffic in order to walk to the other side. Road crossing is an art and one needs to be a trapeze artist to cross roads at the crossroads of Bhubaneswar.

Though the temperature stayed under 40°C (104°F) it was another muggy, lazy dog day of summer. After lunch, I lied down reading SAMBAD, a vernacular Newspaper. It's a boring newspaper and the best medicine for insomniacs. Read couple of pages from the newspaper, you will be sleeping like a baby. Didn't remember when sleep overpowered me until wafted in a high pitch voice from a street vendor - BALTI, MUG NABA, BALTI MUG (Will you buy Buckets and Mugs).

The voice appeared louder and louder, gradually closing on me and slowly fading away reminding me of the Doppler's Effects we studied during Intermediate Physics - the effects of approaching sound on ear. I turned my side yawning, semi asleep. Then poof, electricity gone again. But thanks to the inverter, the fan kept on churning the air to my relief but soon the circulating air was slowly getting too hot for my comfort.

I stepped outside the room, still wobbly when our maid cautioned me not to step into the floor she just finished mopping. Thanking her for saving my somnambulist torso from crashing on the slippery floor, I tip toed carefully trudging into the balcony. Another vendor came yelling DAHI BARA, DAHI BARA (Bara soaked in buttermilk), a big tin container tied to the back of his bicycle with rubber tubes, the air inside the tires barely enough, making the steel frame of the bicycle wheels almost touch the ground.

It reminded me of an episode from my childhood, when defying our parents my sisters and I bought DAHI BARA from such a street vendor to find couple of drowned cockroaches who had taken a "Buttermilk Burial". We were squarely reprimanded by our parents not to buy anything from such vendors again.

Had a taste of BIKRUTA (Wierd) Odia today while I caught the local FM. Some of my non Odia and NRO friends speak far better non-accented Odia than the anchors on FM, especially the female ones who apparently think speaking accented Odia is a fad. And the quality of modern Odia songs - the less I speak of them, better. More later....

Wednesday, June 8, 2022

Day VIII in Bhubaneswar - India trip 2022

 I have observed certain marked differences in some commonly used phrases in American English and our Onglish (Odia accented English).


Onglish     : One to one meeting.
American : One on one meeting.

Onglish :       Going to office.
American :   Going to work.

Onglish :      Let's have lunch together.
American :  Let's do lunch together.

Onglish:Are you Going to lunch with us ? 
American : Are you Coming to lunch with us ? And so on...

This evening it felt so nice to meet my childhood friends from BJB Flats where we spent the bulk of our childhood and youth. We recapitulated those crazy days - playing cricket under street lights, stealing fruits from neighbors' orchards and of course tracing the whereabouts of the better known neighborhood girls who have now gracefully grown into middle aged women.

After taking an early morning shower on Monday morning, following my mom's diktat I walked towards SUKHMESWAR MANDIRA, one of several Shaivite (of Lord Shiva) temples scattered around adoring my neighborhood of Old Town. I do this religiously whenever I am in the town. It reminded me an episode from one of my prior trips.

Before walking to the temple I drank Tea, followed by Amul Lassi and couple of glasses of PAIDA (young coconut) water freshly plucked from one of the Coconut trees in our backyard. While on my way back, I realised my bladder was about to burst as I won't be able to hold on to it much longer. As there was still some distance to be covered (distance is a relative term and not just a number when you walk with controlling nature's call), I thought it would be prudent to open the valve midway.

Frantically looking for a spot with privacy, I found a suitable peeing spot by roadside. It was a dry spot near a wet wall, heavily stained by betel leaf saliva and more heavily stenched by rivulets of urine mixed with red saliva. Couple of guys joined me on my side were also inspecting the site for a location. The guy on my right looked up into the sky while relieving himself. I turned my head to the left and smiled at the other. He reciprocated by smiling back at me, exposing his phalanx of all hia dark, betel stained 32 teeth.

We all shook ourselves off, lifted and tightened our pants and bid each other an unspoken goodbye. It is another feeling of the pleasure of relieving oneself under open, blue sky, something I rarely do these days. A la a doggie I managed to leave my scent behind, may be back one day to reuse the spot. It is the best way to recycle these wall urinals lurking around the smart city. No place to wash hands, I knew it will be a few minutes before I reach home to do so - sincerely wishing of not getting an opportunity to shake my hands with someone. Feeling completely light and relieved, I started trudging my way back.

Soon my wish was to be belied. On my way back, I saw a familiar face rushing towards me - "HAIO KEBE FOREIGN RU ASILA. KETE DINA ACHHA" - "Hey when did you come from abroad (foreign in Odia is the term used here to denote a nation outside India, especially Western Countries). How long are you staying", extending himself for a warm welcome handshake. I reluctantly took my hand forward, squinting my nose, hesitantly extended my right hand towards him. The smiling guy on the other side shook his hands enthusiastically for a few seconds. 

Post handshake, he rolled his hands over his lip and chins, making me squint and raise my nose further. Hope someone recorded this handshake moment, it could very well get million plus hits on YouTube a la the greatest handshakes in history - Chamberlain with Hitler, Nixon with Chairman Mao, Ronald Reagan vs Mikhail Gorbachev and so on. Glad I didn't meet any more Mr. Fortunates on my way to shake hands with. More later...

Monday, June 6, 2022

Day VII in Bhubaneswar - India trip 2022

Mangoo vs Mongoose. This morning I saw an interesting encounter between Mangoo, our tenant's pet cat and a local Mongoose. The cat was perched on a low height wall overlooking the street across our house. He could sense something around and became alert lifting its tails. Suddenly from nowhere came a brown mongoose. The cat jumped off the walls and ran to the safety of our home. The Mongoose has a AHI NAKULA SAMPARKA (Snake and Mongoose relationship), so it's enemical only to the presence of snakes, its sworn enemy. It was hardly perturbed by a kitty cat and vanished fast behind bushes. My mother said it's going to be a good day for me as seeing mongoose is being considered to be auspicious here.

I see an analogy between the untimely death of popular Bollywood singer KK and the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857. There were two causes behind the Mutiny against the British. First, there was a long term pent up anger against the British East India Company's 100 year rule. Second and immediate cause was Mangal Pandey firing the first bullet of mutiny, killing an English Army Officer and triggering what we call the first war of India's independence.

Similarly, the first reason behind KK's heart attack is the long term blockage of his arteries, symptoms of which were ignored. Second and the immediate cause could be the stress and high BP associated on stage during his concerts which triggered the heart attack.

Many celebrity artists die young. It is said that "Gandharvas" (celestial beings from Hindu mythology who are singers and dancers) are born as super talented artists who die young after leaving their indelible mark. KK was the latest to join the bandwagon. The other KK was our eccentric genius Kishore Kumar who also died of sudden heart attack when he was only in his 50s.

"Are you here with your Missus and family ?", is a question I am commonly asked. People here are bit shy of using the word "wife". The word Missus is widely prevalent and the preferred word for wife here. Me, my Missus and son have become very fond of mangoes. The three of us devoured a dozen in one seating.

There are also differences in the usage of certain words (phrases) in America and my native state of Odisha. One such word is "Nonsense". In US it means something which doesn't make sense or difficult to understand. But in Odisha saying "Nonsense" can be considered as a GAALI or rebuke, taken in a derogatory sense. Another one is the usage of the phrase "I don't care". It implies lack of inclination or disinterest or simply "it's non of my business". In Odisha saying "I don't care" can instantly brand you as a heartless person lacking empathy. Meanings can be lost in translation.

In the Webster's dictionary smart means "clever, witty, brainy" etc. In Bhubaneswar parlance a guy on a bike wearing shining shoes and chasing girls is considered a smart guy. The name "Smart city" tag given to Bhubaneswar speaks for itself.

Rains were long overdue and much needed. Around 9 PM gusty gales brought in cool air lifting the dust above the ground. It followed by heavy water droplets plattering on the tree and ground, giving way to pouring rain and thunderstorm. Loved every bit of the rain slicing through the flashing lightning and heavy thunder. It brought the temperature considerably down and the croaking sound of frogs to forefront. Big toads were seen jumping around the street and our garden through the bright zizzag light of the nature. More later...

Sunday, June 5, 2022

Day VI in Bhubaneswar - India trip 2022

 Just completed one week of my stay and couldn't ignore a noticeable difference and positive development this summer here in Bhubaneswar - the absence of perpetual load sheddings and ubiquitous power cuts. Barring a few power fluctuations and loss of electricity for few minutes, the power runs steady - being the savior from the ongoing stifling heat and humidity.

I should have touched wood while writing this. Not long after I wrote this Electricity went poof. It wasn't for too long, but it felt like eternity. For 2 hour there was no power. No toilet, no shower. The inverter which backs up power for emergency use kept the ceiling fan running which kept churning out hot and humid air. 

Felt like a fish out of water, lying supine on hot bed a la horizontal version of Sri Chaitnanya Mahapranhu getting barbecued. An hour gone, still no sign of electricity. Sprinkle some salt and pepper over me I am a great grill. Another couple of hours I could have become a SUKHUA or dried fish, an Odia delicacy. Thankfully electricity came back at the knick of the moment, rescuing us from further torment.

Another positive outcome of this hot and muggy weather is it has kept mosquitoes at bay. The tiny blood suckers haven't vanished, rather been in hibernation to escape from the heat. Whatever few I encounter in our room I mercilessly clap them to death. Mosquitoes are known to have amazing resilience. Non of these mosquito repellants are effective against them. The best option is mosquito net, but I feel terribly claustrophobic inside it. Preventing them from entering your room and their manual extermination of those present is the optimal solution.

The ongoing separation drama between a couple of celebrities or a celebrity couple of Odisha is grabbing headlines of local media. The popular cine couple of Anubhav and Barsha made a perfect glamorous lover duo, ideally made for each other couple on screen. Alas, their fairy tale marriage has apparently gone wrong with the couple doing mudslinging in the public. When they got married they were expected to repeat their onscreen romance and chemistry in their married life. But Real world is different from reel world, something they are learning the hard way.

The stifling heat and humidity forces me to drink plenty of water to keep myself hydrated. I am drinking twice the amount of water I normally do to pee the same. Took a walk inside the Forest Park one late evening. Didn't turn exactly into a walk in the park. I was told each round on the walking trail measures 900m (1/2 mile). The heat and humidity, even after the dark is so energy sapping that after 4-5 rounds I was completely exhausted and felt rejuvenating only after drinking a full 2 liter bottle of water. The key is to stay hydrated. Also the diary products here, especially the Yogurts get spoiled after couple of days even if you keep them inside the refrigerator - so bad is the current mugginess.

During lunch I try all kinds of Saaga of local varieties - Kosala, Leutia and Sajana which we don't get in USA, especially the later which is my favorite. They are simply packed with all essential vitamins and other nutrients. We eat our lunch at noon, unlike most here who don't eat lunch until 2 PM. Similarly 9.30 PM is the dinner time at our home, it has been the same since my childhood days. That's still early for many. 

A lot of households here in Bhubaneswar eat dinner no earlier than 10 PM. In US where the dinner time in 7 PM, is the snacking time in here when street food and fast food restaurants make brisk business. Food and culture may vary across the globe but are great unifiers. More later...



Friday, June 3, 2022

Day V in Bhubaneswar - India trip 2022

 So far, my days here are mostly like running errands in the morning, taking long afternoon siesta post lunch when venturing out of home in stifling heat and humidity can be energy sapping. Then hanging out in evening hours when the weather is lot more windy and pleasant. My son loves jumpy rides in 3-Wheeler Auto rickshaws on bumpy roads here, equating them to roller coaster rides on theme parks.

Every other day I visit the local HAAT (Flea or Farmers market) to grab some fresh, leafy green veggies - especially my favorite LEUTIA, KOSALA SAAGA (Local Leafy Greens) and DESI ALU (Yam). I have become the favorite of a middle aged lady vegetable vendor. I think she likes me for two things. Every time I buy vegetables, I don't do any bargaining and tell her to keep the changes when she returns me the balance. 

The first time I gestured her to keep the change, it raised her curiosity as she raised her head - putting her hand over her forehead to take a close peek at me through the sun glare. Every time she sees me standing in front of her mounds of vegetables, she hands me over the choicest pieces of DESI ALU and five bundles of SAAGA which she sets aside exclusively for me. It seems like I have become her favorite customer as I don't dishearten her.

Remembered this incident years ago during one of my summer trips to India. One fine morning I came to this same vegetable market to do some shopping and catch a glimpse of the milieu. No sooner I finished my purchase from a vendor than I heard someone shouting MAHADEB, MUNDIA (Salute, O Lord  Shiva. The venerable Bull is the ride of Lord Siva). I turned my head to notice a huge Bull sniffing vegetables hardly couple of feet from me. The mountain sized bovine acknowledged greetings by nodding its head while still happily munching the vegetables offered to him.

A man suddenly arrived on scene clad in LUNGI (A loincloth wrapped around the waist which can be conveniently removed for multiple purposes). Scratching his private parts in public (blame the hot and humid weather for that) he asked the lady vendor, ALO BAIGANA KETE NEKHA - "Hey, how much is the cost of the Eggplant" ? 

Then came a woman covered in rags, shouting explicit at another vendor who refused to part her with vegetables. 
She started cursing the vendor's whole family to die from BAADI (cholera, a killer disease of yesteryears but now defunct). She could have cursed her to die from Covid or Cancer as one has a better chance to perish these days from these diseases rather than Cholera. She also went on accusing the woman vendor of soliciting illicit relationship with her mothers and sisters. I couldn't understand why she didn't direct her anger towards her father and brother rather than mother and sister. Apparently we are a male dominated society where mothers and sisters are the butts of profanity and curse.

After being content from covering every member of her 14 generations with all her curses she finally relented. The lady selling the vegetables ignored her and went on shouting BAIGANA BAIGANA (eggplant, eggplant). I asked the lady vendor the reason behind the other woman's sudden outburst. Before she could answer my query, a man in loin cloth and unkempt hair told me "She is mad. No one takes her seriously". He sounded serious and logical.

As he walked away, the vegetable vendor started giggling. I asked her - "What's so funny about what he just said ? It was quite obvious that the woman didn't sound to be mentally sound". She replied, "Babu (Sir), this man just told you that the abusive woman is a PAGELI (mad woman), right ? " "Yes, I think I heard him loud and clear", was my reply. She continued giggling "Hee hee. He is no different. He is a PAGALA (he-mad) too." And he calls her mad. Hee hee hee. She continued giggling.

Now trying to make sense out of the madness surrounding me I swept off the beads of sweat from my forehead as the tropical sun was peaking right over my head. It was time to rush back home, far from the madding crowd. More later...

Wednesday, June 1, 2022

Day IV in Bhubaneswar - India trip 2022

 Though I ascribe to SAMBADA, the largest selling Odia daily as junk, I still can't desist reading it every morning. There was exclusive coverage of the results of the Indian Civil Services, arguably still the most cherished job in India. The widespread coverage of the results and rank holders of the Civil Services exam was not just limited to the print media, it was all over the electronic and social media as well. 

Not surprised in a feudal state where Babus rule the roost. The ruling party in Odisha BJD which stands for Biju Janata Dal can very well be christened as Babu Janata Dal - for per grapevine the state administration is completely controlled by Babus not by legislators from the ruling party. 

Can't think of any Babu contributing to the economy or generating jobs. But their routine transfers are usually talk of the town and page 3 material on the newspapers. I have many entrepreneur friends who sweat their ass in generating employment and contribute to the local economy. Rarely they are considered as page 3 material.

Last week an IAS officer in Delhi was charged of depriving athletes practice time after 7 PM because the Babu can walk his dog in that stadium. Hue and cry followed. Soon the Babu got a so called "punishment" transfer. Ideally he should have been suspended or even fired. Not sure why this transfer is called punishment as it could rather prove rewarding to him as he will be away from the toxic Delhi air, breathing fresh air in pristine Ladakh. Now he will be living in salubrious climes and in a picturesque environment. On top of that there will be ample of space in vast Ladakh to walk his dog. The so called "punishment" transfer is hogwash.

Reminds me of the experts from a book "DM's Dog" I read not long ago written by a retired Bureaucrat. Once in the early 1980s the author as a very young IAS officer who went to meet the Collector-cum-DM at the later's Residence office to introduce himself. All of a sudden the D.M.'s dog ran towards him and got hold of the bottom of his trousers. The young man, a cynophobic kicked the dog away out of self defensive reflex action. The furious Collector retorted back - "How dare you kick D.M.'s dog". Profuse apology from the young officer didn't hold any water. From that day the D.M. kept a grudge on the young man. Had the dog kicking officer was not from the elite Civil Services he could have lost his job.

My take on this is very simple. The day we stop giving prominence to the results of Civil Services and routine bureaucratic transfers we can proudly proclaim of having come out of feudalistic mindset. Babu worship is the sine qua non of a feudal society. Lesser the no of Babus and more the no of entrepreneurs, the more advanced a race is. 

When in the summer month of July, 1902, a 25-year-old engineer from New York named Willis Carrier invented the first modern air-conditioning, little did he know that his invention would be so indispensable in future. During my childhood days when the outside air was hot and humid, I didn't run to the comfort of Air Conditioning - because like most from my generation we didn't have AC in our home in the 1970s, 80s and well into the 90s. Now every middle class home in Bhubaneswar has at least one wall mounted AC installed.

I rarely felt the pang of heat, even during the hottest of summers in India. For me the exposure to AC was limited to its cooling comfort wafting inside the Computer Lab in NIT, Rourkela during my student life. No more, no less. A few restaurants and movie theatres had AC, but they regularly cut corners to save money by switching it off now and then. The owners cheated their customers of Air Conditioning which they thought as a luxury rather than a necessity and the hapless customers should be robbed off from this comfort, easily taken for a ride.

Urbanization and rapid growth of concrete jungles has made our cities hotter than before, but over dependence on AC makes us feel and complain more about the heat. As the saying goes in Odia - MANISHA SABUTHARU BADA SUBIDHA BAADI PRANI (Humans are creatures of comfort). Now that I have the comfort of AC, every now and then I look forward to it. 

Without access to Air Conditioning we can adjust to the environment, vindicating Darwin's theory of the survivor of the fittest. Humans being intelligent animals readily adjust to the situations and cicumstances. That's why we survived whereas the dinosaurs, mammoths and mammoth number of animals part of the fauna couldn't.

Same applies to most from our parent's generation who grew up in villages. After living in the cities for decades they can barely spend more than half a day in their native villages which do not provide the same levels of comforts of the cities. My grandmother who lived more than two third of her life without electricity was so much addicted to AC that she won't leave her room which was a cool 20 degrees cooler than the outside world. She was too tuned to AC and refused to visit her native village in summer where she lived lived happily for the better part of her life.

During the World War II at the time of relentless Nazi Bombing on England the British Royal Air Force fought bravely against the air blitzkrieg of Germany's Luftwaffe. Winston Churchill, the then British war time Prime Minister said about the Royal Air force - "Never in the History of mankind so many were dependent on so few", a tribute to the contribution of the handful of pilots who stubbornly defended the entire English population from the Nazi onslaught. 

Same can be attributed to AC - "Never in the history, so many humans were dependent on a mechanical unit". More later...