Saturday, January 31, 2026

Day XII and XIII India trip January 2026

 The day following Republic day was Tuesday. On that day there was a strike called by the Unionized Public Sector Bank demanding a 5 day work week. It is no coincidence that this was perfectly timed to make a 4 day long weekend a 5 day one. Anyway, I went to withdraw money from the local branch of Kotak Mahindra Bank, a private bank located closer to our home at Lewis Road. I own an NRE account in that bank.

The Bank opens at 10 AM. I was there at 10.30 AM to encash a check. The girl at the money transaction desk was away. I was told "MADAM BREAKFAST KARIBAKU JAICHANTI (ma'am has gone to eat breakfast)" and was instructed to seat in front of her chair until she is back. It took ma'am 20 more minutes to get back to her desk. She burped a bit indicating a fulfilling breakfast, slid her chair to make space to take her seat, sipping couple of sips from her green color plastic water bottle. I passed on my check to her for verification. She looked at the check's front and back, put a "x" sign behind it and pushed it back to me - "ETHI SIGN KARANTU (Please sign here). She kept clicking into the computer with her right hand as she yawned covering her mouth with her left hand.

I asked her - "Why the shutter at the bank entrance is half down ?" She replied back - "That's a precautionary measure to prevent the public sector banking folks from barging in and creating nuisance, forcing us to support their strike by closing our bank". I said - "But why the shutter is half down ? Is it to prevent big, burly guys from entering into the bank and only less threatening Liliputs would be allowed to get in ?" She laughed at my joke, covering her mouth and responded - "Sir, not long ago we had folks from the Government Bank Union forcibly enter into our bank threatening to do "BHANGA RUZA" (vandalism). We had a close call. I am so scared of their GOONDA GIRI (rowdiness) and concerned about my safety today". She again pushed back the check to me and told me that being the holder of an NRE account I need to check the box mentioning the purpose of withdrawal. I did the needful. She passed on the check to the next counter where the girl sitting inside an enclosure handed me the cash without looking at me as she was talking to someone on her cellphone, clinging to it well tucked between her left ear & shoulder. I left the bank safe with cash on hand.

The next day was Bharat Bandh (Close India) strike called by Farmers Union and supported Opposition parties. I had to cancel some of my programs in morning as I was told that traveling on the main roads could be hassle. Though the impact of Bandh was minimal, I didn't take any chances. At the fag end of my trip din't want to travel in a vehicle and be stoned. Fasting and Bandh as protests are so passe. Those are from a bygone era and shouldn't have any place in 21st century. It's such a wastage of time, money and productivity. Sad every party, including BJP, so called a party with a difference do it.

In the evening accompanied by a friend made a trip to the 64 Yogini Temple on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar near Hirapur village. The temple was surrounded by huge mango trees harboring tons of sprouting brown colored "BAULA" (Mango flowers) and at least a dozen monkeys, big ones jumping around, mama monkeys carrying their babies perched on their back. Most of the visitors to the temple were from outside Odisha, speaking in Hindi and Telugu (same I noticed when at Lingaraj temple, not far from where I live).

It was "GODHULI" (twilight zone) time as we drove past on a dusty road with the red setting sun looking like the an ultra-large "Sindoor" of an old woman in the smog. After reaching the picturesque confluence of the rivers of Daya and Bhargavi, I took pictures of birds circling over, flying back to their nest after a long day. My native village near Puri is located on the banks of the tributary Bhargavi before it flows into the Chilika lagoon.

My reverie was bluntly disturbed by smell of wet shit wafting into my nostrils. Turned around to see couple of urchins relieving themselves by the "BARAKOLI" (Jujube) bush with smartphones in hand, their bottoms barely an inch above pyramids of shit. They felt shy,  looked the other way and so also I. A swarm of mosquitoes spiraled out of the cesspool of water looking like mini tornadoes forming in the smog, spreading through, a la time Draculas baying for blood. 

It was getting dark as my friend and I left the place. On the river bridge we saw fishermen selling fresh catch of "POHALA" fish and tiny shrimps from the river under street light equipped with the modernity of cell phone and "Phone Pe". India is a paradox, a land of contradiction where richness and poverty, modernity and backwardness all thrive together side by side. I slapped myself to get rid of a mosquito sitting on my cheek and the dimmed red hot son slid below the distance horizon to mark the end of the day. I tied the helmet to my head and rode the pillion back home. More later...


Thursday, January 29, 2026

Day X and XI - India trip January 2026

 In order to catch the early morning flight to Bhubaneswar via Hyderabad leaving Dabolim Airport of Goa at 7.30 AM, I had to get up early at 4 O'clock in the morning and get ready. It was pitch dark when us, about a dozen friends boarded the van to the Airport. As India has only one time zone sun rises at 4.30 AM in the eastern state of Assam, where in Goa which is on the West coast of India it doesn't dawn before 7.30 AM. It felt like middle of night in Goa in the wee hours of the morning. Considering its size, India should ideally have 2 time zones.

For us who had only carry on hand luggages to carry and no bag to check-in, we moved straight to the security counter as we already did our online check-in. The security at Dabolim Airport in Goa was shoo-in. But it wasn't so at the security gate in Hyderabad Airport where transiting passengers were transfering/connecting to various airports in India. Sunday morning, the next day being a Monday and national holiday there were too many passengers in the queue (line) waiting for their turn to go through the security.

The place was too crowded for my comfort. Some one shouted that his flight was about to leave, slid down one of the straps separating the parallel lines to get ahead in queue. Commotion followed as some passengers snuck through that narrow opening as many in the back shouting at the perpetrators of this uncivilized act. But the flood gate already opened, people poured in like waves across a ruptured dam which would have put DALEI GHAI (the legendary embankment on river Mahanadi known to burst during monsoon flooding) to shame. 

A lady security staff arrived on scene and tried to keep the crowd under control by putting back the strap in place. I was but a mute yet amused spectator to this saga which didn't end there. As I pulled out the tray to put my hand bag, belt, phone etc to be X-rayed, some one tried to sneak in his tray ahead of me. I politely asked him to go back in line. He dithered a bit. But no sooner he looked around and saw a security personnel staring at him, he fell in line. I remembered Khushwant Singh once mentioned on his column - "We Indians respect rod more than logic". Couldn't understand why there weren't more staff to handle the security on a long weekend at a major Airport of India. As I climbed the escalator towards the boarding gates, I could hear the sound of another bout of verbiage directed at some one cutting the line which slowly faded away due Doppler's effect we read in Physics as the escalator moved upstairs.

Today's saga reminded me of an incident narrated by Bollywood actor Raja Murad who was once traveling in an upper class of an international flight in the very early stages in his career. Traveling with him was Rajkumar, an established actor at that time. Someone passed on a message to Raja Murad that folks traveling in the Economy Class were interested to get a glimpse of their favorite star Rajkumar who after some persuasion agreed to come to the economy class to meet his admirers. After the meet and greet was over on his way back to his Business/First Class area Rajkumar told Raja Murad in his inimitable style - "JAANI, TUM KAHAN MUJHE DHARAAVI LE AYE" - "My dear, you have brought me to Dharaavi". It was a condescending remark alluding the economy class, also called cattle class to Dharaavi, a famous slum in Bombay, the biggest in Asia. After watching the episode at the Hyderabad Airport security I am convinced that folks in Dharaavi or Salia Sahi slum of Bhubaneswar are a civilized lot.

It was already past 10 AM as it took us close to an hour to come out of security. Famished as we hadn't eaten since last night, some of us hit the lounge area to eat breakfast. It consisted of myriads Indian dishes like Dosa, Vada, Idli, Sambar etc and a veritable spread of Continental cuisine like cereal, bread, eggs, chicken sausages, baked beans, washed down by Masala Tea, watery juice and Coffee. Food and caffeine rejuvenated our tired souls.

The flight to Bhubaneswar was full with more than a dozen of my friends and classmates on board for company. As the aircraft descended over the mid-afternoon Bhonsar you would expect to see a bright, sunny blue sky. From the window seat I had a smoky and dusty view with the sun looking like a dimmed incandescent bulb. It seemed as if some one lit millions of "Agarbati" (incense sticks) in the city, thanks to heavy dust and pollution, most of it created by city's residents. No sooner I reached home than took a short nap to ameliorate my body & spirit and recharge my battery. The long day is yet to be over as a long evening awaits me to get ready for a social event. More later...

Tuesday, January 27, 2026

Day IX - India trip 2026

The residents of Goa mostly speak Konkani. It was interesting to know that there are two variations of Konkani - the regular Konkani spoken en masse and the Catholic Konkani which has a heavy Portuguese influence tinged with its own grammar.

After a good night sleep, I followed up with a heavy breakfast taking full advantage of the buffet spread with a varieties of Indian items like Dosa, Idli, Upma as well as the regular spread of continental dishes like fruits, cereals, bread, egg, sausages, potato wedges and so on. In Odia we have a saying "AME ODIA LOKE MAGENA MILILE RALA AAU GARAM PICHU HAPUDI PAKEIBU", meaning "We Odias can slurp hot coal tar or black pitch used to make road surface, as long as it is given to us free". Being a true Odia, I helped myself well at the breakfast buffet of all free items.

We traveled by bus to Nandanvan Spice Farm in Kodar, about 30-40 minutes drive from the resort. A guided tour of the Spice plantation was followed by lunch. The plantation looked dark and deep, the foliage kept environment cool at middle of the day when temperature hit 90°F (32°C). The soil was still damp from irrigated by sprinkler earlier that morning. When I queried the tour guide about the dry environment outside the plantation, she said - "You should visit Goa during the monsoon season between June and September. It doesn't rain here, it simply pours. Rest of the year it stays predominantly dry in Goa".

Being a nature lover, its flora and fauna, I saw a Resin producing plant from which "Jhuna", a product when lit produces smoke used during Puja (worshipping). I saw plants of cashew, betel nut, bay leave, turmeric, green ilaichi (cardamom), nutmeg, clove, cinnamon and last but not the least, black pepper, called the black gold during the medieval time of history. The Portuguese discovered it in India and found the Goa weather most suitable for its plantation. Black pepper plant is a climber which goes around tall trees. I saw one climbing on a betel nut tree, its nascent green fruit sprouting on both sides of the stem a la beads on the long braid of a tribal girl. Our girl guide told us that come April, these green fruit will turn red, the tiny round shaped pepper inside becomes dark in color, ready to be harvested as black pepper. The Europeans preferred black pepper to the chillies because unlike chilli pepper which gives instant heat, the heat from black pepper is milder with a distinct flavor which takes time to bring out the heat, titillating the taste bud.

Mid afternoon after a quick lunch at the Spice farm it was time to head to Benaulim beach, known for its various Water sports activities. Many took part in fancied jet skiing, paragliding etc. I stuck to a ten seater boat ride about a mile into the sea from coast. It was fun with all the salty water flashing all over your body. Yet I would consider the beach between Puri and Chandrabhaga in Odisha better with its golden white sand and rolling waves. However the Goa beach was lot cleaner. Unlike the Puri beach which is strewn in litters and at shit at places where you can hurt your feet if you walk barefoot, the Goa beach hardly had any debris. The coast guards were patrolling to chastise any recalcitrant tourists trying to break rules.

After returning back to hotel and freshening up, it was time to hit Joecons Beach Shack Benaulim right on the beachfront, sipping Bahama breeze cocktail on a breezy evening. As a fitting finale to the reunion, we had our last supper accompanied by live band and karaoke with Arabian sea roaring in the background. I loved Serradura on supper manu, a local sweet dish of Portuguese origin which I ate for the first time.

It was a lovely evening filled with nostalgia, the last one before our departure. We all agreed "ZINDAGI NA MILEGA DOBARAA", such life will not come again. Earlier that evening our friends went to the beach to enjoy the sunset. Sun might have set over the British empire, but Sun never sets over our friendship. God bless the REC 90 batch. More later...



Sunday, January 25, 2026

Day VIII - India trip 2026

 After catching cold it was my turn to catch the morning flight to Hyderabad on my way to Goa to attend a College reunion on the occasion of the 35th Anniversary of passing out from NIT (them REC), Rourkela. Engineered for fun, I reached the Airport around 7.30 AM in the morning, standing in line for my id and boarding pass to be checked by the security in order to get into the Airport (unlike in USA where you can straight walk to the check in counter, in India there is an additional layer of security to get inside the airport. Only bonafide passengers and airport staff are allowed inside Airport).

Suddenly a young girl proudly cut the line going ahead of me in line, barging in front of me sliding her pink colored hand luggage. I promptly protested - "You are cutting the line ma'am". Rather than sending a polite apology or its milder version sorry, or even remaining quite, he retorted back - "I didn't see you". Irritated, I replied - "What do you mean by not seeing me standing ahead of me in queue ? Are you blind" ? "Oh, you don't have to be so rude". I replied back - "I don't have to, but I have". She twitched her cheek, gave me a sneer and melted into the crowd already reeking with passengers travelling on a long weekend (Friday, January 23 is a holiday here due to Saraswati Puja, Monday, January 26 is holiday as the Republic day).

This is my first trip in India where I was not taking a direct flight to my destination, rather transferring/connecting through Hyderabad en route to the final destination Goa. First time at Hyderabad Airport, found it swankier compared to Bhubaneswar Airport. There were a lot of stores, restaurants around the boarding gates. Restrooms were clean. (Like a dog I peed at the Airport to leave my mark at Hyderabad before catching my Airplane to Goa).

It was my initial thought that cutting line was limited to Bhubaneswar only. The same happening during the security check of passengers at Hyderabad Airport transferring to the connecting gates. Folks were trying to sneak in between to snatch the trays to put their bags, belts, electronic items on them and put them ahead of you. I politely asked one guy not to cut ahead of me. He gave me "didn't har you" kind of look. But when a 6 feeter CISF personnel with a Walrus moustache standing nearby warned the passengers, every one fell in line. More than my polite request, a cop's high pitched voice was heard loud and clear by co-passengers.

It was middle of afternoon when my flight from Hyderabad landed at the Dabolim Airport in South Goa. OLA and Uber Cabs aren't available in Goa, thanks to the locally Unionized Cab association. The pre-paid Taxi looked so seventies, with worn out seat and dusty interior. No wonder lack of competition and options impacts quality and breeds inefficiency. The taxis are Goa Airport best vindicated this fact. The old car with a struggling Airconditioning trudged its way to Sarovar Sea Breeze Fatrade Resort in Varca area of South Goa, maneuvering through the narrow lanes and bylaness.

I took a peek outside to look around the hilly terrains filled with a labyrinth of old style houses. The milieu of Goa looks like a sophisticated version of Puri, minus the filth. I saw signs of "Garibi" (poverty), but hardly any "Gandgi" (trash). The afternoon flow of vehicles was orderly, no zigzag traffic, hardly any honking of horn, bulls. I saw fewer pariah dogs on road compared to Bhubaneswar. Locals looked dark, short and stout but all smiling. Didn't see any female in Saree attire, they wore western dress, long flowing scott.

The houses were made up of concrete with red tiled rooftops, had big walls, tall iron gates protecting the protruding TAGARA, MANDARA (hibiscus) flowing trees, Mango trees filled with BAULA (sprouting blossoms), guava, coconut and betel nut trees ladden with construction dust. Not a single wall had any lover's public proclamation of eternal love - "Harry loves Sally" or " Harish loves Savita". Didn't see any stacks of shit, nor anybody peeing or squatting by roadside. Only difference, in Goa you see as many churches as you see temples in Puri or Bhubaneswar.

It was a heartfelt moment filled with nostalgic memories to be greeted by a banner proudly proclaiming the Reunion of 1990 batch Rengcolian (as NIT, or old REC Rourkela guys are called). Meeting many after years, some after passing out from the college 35 years ago, I noticed that all of us have gracefully aged, more graying and receding hairlines. Excited by meeting each other after a long hiatus, few of us went an extra yard at the hotel lobby hopping towards each other like a triple jumper athlete with spring on their feel to embrace each other,

Done with meet and greet, it was sun set time and time for us to gather at the resort lobby to travel to Ouzo Delmar Banquet Varca beach in South Goa where Goan dance show plus music plus karaoke plus gala dinner with drinks awaited us. Bar, Beach and Barbecue in Goa is incomplete without shaking legs. Us Rengcolians on the wrong side of their 50s and arguably in the last throes, we are without any argument the best dancers on earth. For many of us, it was the last occasion to swing and tweak our hips and legs as a group before arthritis takes over.

Goa is a foodie's paradise, especially those who love seafood. The are known for excellent Sea Food preparation. Fish is called "Machhi" which sounds more like Makhee (flies), rather than Machhli is Suddh Hindi. They speak a sweet Konkani mixed Hindi. It was close to midnight when I dragged by tired torso, but high on spirit to my hotel room. I had a pretty long eventful day and slept through the night till 7 O'clock in morning. After exactly a week my jet lag was over. More later...

Saturday, January 24, 2026

Day VI and VII in Bhubaneswar

 Managed to catch a cold. Got up this morning to sore throat, cough, body ache and a slight running temperature. It seems a combination of Virus, dust and pollution probably took their toll on and control over my body. Soon I had this odd feeling of my throat getting sore and starting to itch more. By noontime I could sense coming down with something. Post lunch I sneezed couple of times as my nostrils started to get warmer and wetter, as my breathing was beginning to get heavier, giving it a burning sensation. The spine, knees and slowly my entire body started aching badly.

Sipped a "Kadda Chai" (strong tea) boiled with a liberal dosage of ginger slices and black pepper. It certainly was soothing to my aching throat and shrugged off my jaded nerves. But the relief was temporary as the symptoms came back again, a la a drunk uncle who you don't want to be at your family function, yet you can't stop him from coming.

Fortunately I didn't have a whole lot of items in my to do list. Feeling weak and tired took an afternoon siesta. By evening I was feeling lousy and drank stronger tea. My voice sounds like our legendary singer Saigal". My wife told me sarcastically - "To me it sounds more like the course croak of a Bull Frog on a rainy summer night".

After a frugal lunch of hot Chinese soup, it felt a lot better. Hot and spicy food feel so soothingly titillating to my numbed taste bud.
Read somewhere that Viruses hate Alcohol. However, didn't try any. Continued to lie on bed like a horizontal version of Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, the legendary medieval time  preacher in Odisha and Bengal during the Bhakti movement.

Common cold can be very irritating. Medical science which has grown leaps and bounds, is yet to discover a cure for it. Only it's duration can be minimized with plenty of fluids and rest. If you take medicine it will last a week.


Took this opportunity to catch up with news back home in United States tuning in to CNN The local Odia channels, gave me more headaches than the cold virus. During the  Odia news the screen flashes in English BREAKING NEWS. They can very well transliterate it as BHANGA KHABARA (broken news), from the way the Odia anchors and newsreaders speak in needless accented Broken Odia. I have seen "Breaking news" like DURDANTA APARADHI CHAKULI GIRAF (Notorious criminal named CHAKULI has been arrested). And more, NAKALI GUTHKA COMPANY UPARE POLICE RA CHADHAU  (police raid on fake chewing tobacco company).

As if not enough, came across a few more terms or phrases. CHUTIA BANEILA (Chutia Banaya) -  Made an ass of me. MAHANGA PADILA  (Mehnga Pada) - Prove costly.
KANA KHECHUDI PAKUCHI (Kya Khichdi Pakta hai) - What's cooking? May Lord Jagannath save my mother tongue. Either it is enriching itself by liberally accepting the influx from other languages. Or, it's destined towards oblivion, which seems like the most likely outcome.

Friday, January 23, 2026

Day IV and V in Bhubaneswar - India trip January 2026

Life in Bhubaneswar goes at a slow pace but time passes fast. Before I realized already 5 days from my vacation are over, and before I realize my entire vacation will be over just like the twinkling of an eye. So it's better to make the best out of it.

Sunday as usual is a holiday here, and Bhubaneswar being the capital city harboring multiple government offices with salaried class people saw relatively less crowded on its roads as today was a government holiday here. It was a cool, Sunday morning with a light wind blowing the dust around. The tree leaves on foliage were desperately trying to shrug off the dust by swaying to the wind. Slowly the wind started to taper and winding up. I accompanied a group of friends for a walk inside the Forest Park. The holiday morning traffic seemed a walk in the park. The floor of the park was filled with few broken twigs and leaves lying amidst layers of dust. There were plenty of "Baul and Krushnachuda" trees inside the park. The mango trees in nascent bloom were adorned with "Baula" (mango flowers) looking like star studded mini Christmas trees protruding out of the dusty, green leaves. Patches of greenish yellow flowers sprinkled all over the walking trail.

The Park was crowded with walkers and a few joggers trying to outrun each other. The walking crowd consisted of folks from all walks, fitting perfectly to the local profile of highly disproportionate figures - slim hands and legs with protruding bellies with muffler wrapped heads looking like Eskimos. Some were seen frantically scanning their smartphones while huffing and puffing ahead, taking a break to text before resuming their walk. A few taller and fitter guys were around, taking longer laps among the dust laden trees.

Completing 5 rounds in the park helped me ameliorate the guilty pleasure of my gluttony. Forest park is a commendable place surrounded by tons of greenery supplying fresh oxygen. The Park gets crowded between 7 to 9 AM, hence if you are looking for plenty of elbow space and privacy during that time, it may not be the perfect place. Otherwise much recommended park for a walk.

Centuries ago Bhubaneswar was the center of Saivaites, unlike many back in those days who were Vaisnavites. There was a division amongst the Saivites and Vaisnavites. Even the kings fought with each other based upon their allegiance to two prominent Hindu Gods. Bhubaneswar is full of temples of Lord Shiva, at least a dozen within couple of miles radius from my house - the most prominent being the Lingaraj temple built by Lalatendu Keshari.

Next morning, I took a slow walk to the local Sukhmeswar temple, barely 500 feet from our house. The temple had more than its usual share of devotees today Sombaar (Monday) with Bhakts (devotees) making a beeline to enter into the narrow entrance of the temple, touching the feet of the Bull, the carrier of Lord Shiva lying near the entrance. I finished my "Darshan" (beholding of the diety) and started by walk home after ringing the temple bell. Suddenly rang a bell of this episode from one of my prior trips.

Before walking to the temple I drank Tea, followed by Amul Lassi and couple of glasses of PAIDA (young coconut) water freshly plucked from one of the Coconut trees in our backyard. While on my way back from temple I realised my bladder was about to burst as I won't be able to hold on to it much longer. As there was still some distance to be covered (distance is a relative term and not just a number when you walk with controlling nature's call when meters seem to be miles), I thought it would be prudent for me to open the valve midway.

Frantically looking for a spot with privacy, I found a suitable peeing spot by roadside. It was a dry spot near a wet wall, heavily stained by betel leaf saliva and more heavily stenched by rivulets of urine mixed with red saliva. Couple of guys joined me on both sides of me inspecting the site for a location. The guy on my right looked up into the sky while relieving himself. I turned my head to the left and smiled at the other. He reciprocated by smiling back at me, exposing his phalanx of 32 of his dark, betel stained teeth.

We all shook ourselves off the residual droplets, lifted and tightened our pants and bid each other an unspoken good bye. It is another feeling of the pleasure of relieving oneself under open, blue sky, something I rarely do these days. A la a doggie I managed to leave my scent behind, may be back one day to reuse the spot. It is the best way to recycle these wall urinals lurking around the smart city. No place to wash hands, I knew it will be a few minutes before I reach home to do so - sincerely wishing of not getting an opportunity to shake hands with someone. Feeling completely light and relieved, I started trudging my way back towards home.

Soon my wish was to be belied. On my way back, I saw a familiar face, a neighborhood Mausa (Uncle) rushing towards me - "HAIYO KEBE FOREIGN RU ASILA. KETE DINA ACHHA" - "Hey when did you come from abroad (Foreign in Odia is the term used here to denote a nation outside India, especially Western Countries). How long are you staying", extending his hands for a warm welcome handshake. I did a "Namaskar" to him, thinking there won't be a need for any handshake. But he insisted on shaking my hands. So, reluctantly I took my hand forward, squinting my nose, hesitantly extending my right hand towards him. The smiling person at the other side shook his hands we me enthusiastically for a good few seconds.

Post handshake, he rolled his hands over his lip and chins, making me squint and raise my nose further. Hope someone recorded this handshake moment, it could very well get million plus hits on YouTube a la the greatest handshakes in history - Chamberlain with Hitler, Nixon with Chairman Mao, Ronald Reagan vs Mikhail Gorbachev and so on. Glad I didn't meet any more Mr. Fortunates on my way to shake hands with. More later...

Wednesday, January 21, 2026

Day II and III in Bhubaneswar - India trip January 2026

 I don't use toilet papers here in Bhubaneswar. Be Roman in Rome. As toilet paper is to Subway sandwich, cold water is to Indian hot and spicy food, absolutely ablutionary and soothing.


A NRI (Non Resident Indian) visiting India once went shopping for Toilet paper. The store was out of it. Retorted the furious NRI, "What kind of store you have, you don't carry a necessity item like Toilet Paper ?" "Sorry Sir" - the storekeeper responded politely. We don't have toilet paper but we have plenty of Sand papers. TIKE ADJUST KARANTU ("Please adjust a little bit)". In many instances it simply means, please squeeze in more than 5 people in a seat made for 3 persons inside a car or any mode of public transport. Or a polite way of saying, "Bear the inconvenience".

Made a trip to "Sarasa Sisira Mela 2026" at the local Exhibition ground. I was told to go around 3 PM in the afternoon to beat the crowd. Though there weren't a whole lot of folks over there, but the haphazard and disorganized onlookers made the venue look crowded.

OLA and UBER cab services are arguably the best thing to happen to the city in recent time. Just book them using your Smartphone App, you can see the cabs rolling in on the screen, doing on-screen somersaults before showing up at your doorsteps in minutes.

The other day I took an UBER cab. As usual I never lose an opportunity to chat, even if that person is a stranger. Sitting next to him I started a tete-a-tete with the driver. Bit stiff initially, he slowly loosened up and boasted that he can slice his way fast through the clogged roads of Bhubaneswar, adept at it as fish is to water. He was planning to drive on till midnight that day and on long term until he goes over the hills over the wheels.

A late migrant from the district of Mayurbhanj to Bhubaneswar, like many job seekers from the hinterland of Odisha he came to capital city, his city of neon lights and opportunity. He landed up as a driver for UBEREY (Uber pronounced in Odia accent) after having a stint spending few years in its competitor company OLA. He shared a small room in a squalor along with 2 other OLA - UBER drivers with an unattached mosquito infested toilet located outside. Every month he sends money to his family in Mayurbhanj. I asked him - "Why don't you go back to your village" ? He replied with a sigh, tired from a long day of stressful drive - "There is hardly any opportunities here. Here I am much better off having a job and save some money to feed mouths back home". The man made his point.

He also shared his frustrations of handling occasional fastidious, recalcitrant passengers, last minute cancellations et all. Like many he dreaded trips to Cuttack, for it's a challenge for him to drive in the labyrinth of lanes of the old city which prides itself on its 52 Bazaars and 53 Streets (BAUN BAZAAR, TEPAN GALI). He detested his customers of Silver City whom he found to be much more obnoxious and less rule abiding compared to those he encountered in Bhubaneswar.

I asked him - "How can you simply generalize like that" ? He continued - "Trust me, you haven't seen Cuttack". He was right. Though Cuttack is our neighboring city, I haven visited it no more than half a dozen times in my life. He went further - "The traffic in the new Capital city of Bhonsar is a walk in the park compared to Odisha's Old Capital city of Cuttack". I chuckled back and told him - "I certainly see how every rule abiding Bhubaneswariya makes his or own road rules on daily basis. Cuttackias can't be any worse".
My ride was over the fare of Rs.160. I gave him a Rs.200 bill (called note here). He reached out to his dashboard for changes. I gestured him to keep the change. During our earlier conversation I raised his curiosity. Now I got his attention to give me a closer look in the street lamp struggling to lighten the darkness.

A la those who come to America rarely go back to their home country, those who once arrive in Odisha's capital rarely leave the city. The Bhubaneswar I grew up with has changed leaps and bounds over the years. Not everyone is happy about the immigrants, especially Bulu (a common nickname among Odias), the owner of a locally popular "Bara" Dokan (shop), a fast food stall barely 100 feet from our home. A proud, original inhabitant of Bhubaneswar he detests all outsiders.

The crowd outside his small kiosk vindicates his popularity. Odias love "Bara". Many don't get a bowel movement if they don't eat Bara for breakfast. Though tasty and okay for occasional consumption, it is unhealthy and produces a lot of gas. No wonder many Odias suffer from gastro-intestinal ailments. People of all sorts cluster around Bulu's Bara Dokan (kiosk). Those from the upper middle class and the nouveau riche of our locality send their domestic help to procure their breakfast. Many on their way to work stop by at this stall for an express breakfast consisting of half a dozen Bara soaked in Ghuguni washed down with hot tea.

All sorts of topics are discussed here. From the cold, bland ones like current weather condition to hot and spicy political gossips as hot and spicy as the simmering Bara dollops getting fried in hot oil. As Bulu the Chef moved around the dollops of "Bara" swirling and wobbling on the surface of boiling oil using his jumbo sized spatula, he exclaimed in an excited voice - "SALAA SABU GAON RU UTHI ASI KAHIBE AME BHONSARA RE RAHIBU" - All those brothers of the sisters I have seduced (SALAA means wife's brother, but in local lingo its usage suggests the speaker is the seducer of the sister of whom so ever concerned). They have come out of their villages with the desire to live in Bhonsara (Bhubaneswar). "RAJADHANI PANI, TANKU ANUCHI TANI - the water of capital city is luring them into it".

Bulu continued further - these folks used to live in squalors in their native villages got no civic sense. They come and live in GOLAM NAGARI (Slave city, ascribed to the rapidly developing portion of the city by those natives who pride themselves as the original city citi-gens), live like POKA - JOKA (insects and leeaches) in illegally constructed buildings. SALE SABU CHIPI HEI MARANTU (Let those guys whose sisters I seduce get trampled and perish).

The tea and snack stall owner Bulu made his point loud and clear. He prides being the true blue blooded boy of Bhonsara, born in Kapileswar, one of the native villages constituting Old town, the real Bhubaneswar. But he is sad, feeling helpless, unable to evict the rusty, arrogant immigrants from his city. Least he can do to change the course of time other than whine about it.

Few years ago during one of my earlier visits, I was watching "Baras" slowly starting to turn light brown from the spotless white dough made out of the soaked grams (lentils). It will take a few more minutes before they get ready. Bulu's unabashed character assassination of the new immigrants continued unabated as my takeout order of Bara was getting ready. Soon the discussion shifted to a spicier topic of someone's teenage daughter from the locality eloping with a smart boy who used to kill line (LINE MARUTHILA) that girl. I looked outside the small kiosk as a big gray bull dumped a fresh mound of shit only a few feet away from me as I could overhear more bullshit discussions going on behind me, akin to the bullshit which I peddle on Facebook on a daily basis.

I picked up my PARSALA order (the carry out or "to go" order is called PARSALA here, the way parcel is spoken in Onglish, i.e., Odia accented English). My order of a dozen of hot Bara costing me only Rs.36 (40 cents) was ready for pickup. A tasty family breakfast for 40 cents, fresh out of wooden clay oven - can't beat it. As he sprinkled some black salt over the dozen pieces of dark brown colored Bara in a THUNGA (Paper packet) along with couple of green chillies and handed over to me, Bulu delivered his final message - "AGYA BHONSARA RE AU RAHI HABANI - Bhubaneswar has become unlivable for us. Glad that you emigrated abroad". It was deja vu for me. He is not the only one who complains about Bhubaneswar, but hardly any one leaves the city. I haven't too, for like one's first love Bhubaneswar still remains close to my heart. More later..